Sorry- it's been a long time since my last post. Much has happened with the MGBeast!
I bought a second hand windshield/frame and my brother and I replaced the old delaminated unit with this nice clear one. It's a fiddly job trying to get the 6 bolts lined up, so we had to partially remove the dash to give us the access we needed.
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| Old windshield- you can see the foggy areas along the bottom |
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| another old photo of the old windshield. Boy- that interior has come a long way! |
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| old and new windshields |
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| windshield removed |
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| Installed and vision is restored! |
I also polished up a few body panels and they are looking pretty good- for 40 year old paint!
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| not too shabby! |
I also installed a used steering wheel I bought off some dude on the internet- $70! Really looks better than that old cracked one that was scalloped enough that you couldn't reach the turn signals with you hands on the wheel.
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| old steering wheel |
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| new steering wheel- much nicer. |
Next up, I replaced the front anti-way bar bushings and links. One side was loose, so I just rebuilt the entire thing with new bushings.
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| old swaybar and mount |
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| old sway bar |
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| using the ol' 12 ton press to replace the bushings- worked perfectly |
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| new bushings and drop link- the bar itself I just painted silver- notice the oil leaking out of the steering rack boot..... more to come later on that one! |
Next up was removing the air conditioning compressor under the alternator and relocating the alternator wher it is supposed to be. No real trouble, just a ton of bolts and big heavy steel brackets. This system would have been installed in the US by the dealer- MG did not offer this option.
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| getting started- you can see the compressor poking out under the alternator |
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| alternator out of the way- not it's time to remove some brackets and compressor |
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| all gone- sure is oily/dirty in there- but that was the Brits way of making sure everything stayed lubricated.... |
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| here is the junk I removed- probably 30 pounds of useess metal |
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| all put back together with new belt, plug wires, mounting hardware, etc. |
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while I had the alternator out, I replaced the brushes since they only cost 1$!
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Next up was replacing the coolant, thermostat, coolant hoses, etc. Drew helped out with this one. Basically, we just drained the coolant, removed all coolant hoses, removed the radiator to flush it out, removed the old thermostst, flushed out the engine, replaced thermostat, installed new coolant hoses, and refilled. I also replaced the heater valve on the side of the block that controls the coolant going to the heater core in the dash. The red hoses are just stock coolant hoses from NAPA with extra reinforcement so they can handle the bends needed. I also painted the radiator and thermostat housing while I had them off.
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old hoses- showing a little swelling. You can also see a body to engine ground strap in this
photo. I just removed it while the hoses and radiator were out of the way and cleaned it up and reinstalled it with some new hardware and dielectric grease. |
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| radiator is out |
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| starting to refit new hoses- new thermostat is already installed under that black part with the tree nuts on the top of it. |
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| all done- including that silver heater valve with the red hose attached to it. |
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another completed shot from the front of the car.
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As I was running the car after replacing the coolant to check for leaks- I noticed a large puddle of oil under the car! OOOppps- after some investigation, it seems one of us must have bumped the oil pressuse guage line right next to the heater valve, so now it was leaking quite badly. I ordered a new line and installed it the following weekend. I'm glad this didn't happen on the highway - could have been much worse. This line is obviously under pressure, so it wouldn't take to long to empty the crankcase of oil while driving at speed.
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| I am obviously holding the old one with the new one installed from the pressure switch to the block. The car has a mechanical oil pressure guage. |
Next on the list was to replace the entire exhaust system. I ended up buying a stainless Tourist Trophy system. No real issues with the install since it was specifically designed for my car. All supports, brackets, hangers, etc fit perfectly. After install, I took her down off the stands and went for a ride- awesome! She has a really nice little burble at low rpms and then really barks at the higher end. I dig it, but I bet my neighbors don't agree (but they must be used to me by now....).
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| new exhaust system |
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| old and new systems |
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| Installed |
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| Muffler installed- some good looking leaf springs aren't they? |
I also installed a new trunk badge for some bling.
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| new trunk (boot) badge- I cracked the old one while waxing the trunk |
Next up, I replaced the battery cables after finding some REALLY nice splices from the previous owner. Basically, they must have wanted to extend the cables so the battery could go in the trunk, so they just mashed the two raw pieces of wire together and wrappen them in electrical tape. Once I removed the tape, they came apart in my hands. I also installed a plastic battery box that houses the battery. Finally, I installed a new fuse box
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| old garbage battery cable |
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new cables and ends with new battery box- the original
steel box is too rusted to hold a battery |
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| new fuse box prior to install |
Next up, I replaced the steering rack boots, clamps, and rack oil. These boots were not leaking when I bought the car, but once I put a few miles on her, the drivers side split and leaked out most of it's oil. Not a very difficult proceedure. Basically, I marked the tie rod with a marker and counted exposed threads so I could put it back exactly like it was before and not mess up the alignment. Once cleaned,marked, and counted, I just loosened the lock nut and grabbed the tie rod with a pair of channel-lock pliiers and spun it out of the tie-rod end so I could get the boots off. An alternate method is to remove the tie rod ends from the steering arm at the wheel hub and then spin them off of the tie rod, but you risk damaging the rubber seal. Once the tie rod is seperated from the rack, I just removed the old and installed the new boots and clamps. Next up was to remove the top cover of the rack so I could fill with all new oil. Between the cover and the rack are a few very thin shims. These are put there to be able to adjust any loosness in the rack itself by removing the thinnest one. When you tighten down the cover, it pushes on a spring loaded piston that in turn tightens the rack. I filled the rack with oil, and then worked the tie rods back and forth to get all of the air out of the system. After a few applications of oil and working the rack, I could hear no more bubbles (you can't see into the rack without removing it) and could install the cover. I tried it with one less shim assuming it was a loose rack, but when I tried to test steer the car, it hung up in a couple of spots. So I removed the cover again, and reinstalled the shim and assembled it again and all was well again.
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| marked tie rod |
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| spinning the tie rod out of the tie rod end still attached to the steering arm |
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| end of a tie rod with locking nut still attached-you can see the female end of the tie rod end in the top left |
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| rack cover and adjustment shims |
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| driver's side complete- you can see the upper cover I removed to fill. The side cover you see is there to access the end of the steering arm if required but I didn't touch it. |
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passenger side complete. Behind the rack you can see a bunch of black gooey stuff- that's what is left from a leaking lever shock and a couple of decades. The other three shocks are dry as of now- so let's move on to the next job:
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My car had quite a bit of bounce on the passenger front which made for some interesting handling characteristics... especially over rail tracks! So, after some research, I found out that these lever shocks are designed to leak a little with use and be topped off every few thousand miles. Armed with some 20W fork oil for motorcyles, I decided to top them off. They can be accessed with the car on the ground be turning the wheels lock to lock for the front and through a little plug under the carpet behind the seats for the rear shocks. Pretty cool actually. So, I started with the offending corner and removed the fill plug in the side of the shock.... it of course was bone dry. I filled it while bouncing the car up and down until it didn't seem to take any more. I reinstalled the fill plug and stood up to give it a real bouncing. It seemed about the same! So, I figured I better just keep bouncing to see if the oil just needs to work its way into the shock body. After about thirty seconds of bouncing the front fender,it stiffened right up and started to actually work like a shock!
I did the other three corners, although they all had a least some oil in them. The test drive after was incredible! This felt like a new car in corners and bumps, so I went for a nice long drive! I can't belive I waited this long to service those shocks.
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| Armstrong lever shock- the fill port is in the cleaned off area at the top |
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you can really see all of the gunk this shock has leaked out over the years.
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Lastely- here are a few random shots- including one from the first time I drove her her to work!
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| first day of school! Looks tiny next to a nid-sized Toyota! |
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| On The Road!!! |
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| I installed the luggage rack |
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| Resting in the garage. |
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